File:Deep water wave.gif

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Deep_water_wave.gif(390 × 256 pixels, file size: 4.15 MB, MIME type: image/gif, looped, 141 frames, 11 s)


English: Stokes drift in deep water waves, with a wave length of about twice the water depth. The ratio of wave height to wavelength is H/λ=0.092.

Description of the animation: The red circles are the present positions of massless particles, moving with the flow velocity. The light-blue line gives the path of these particles, and the light-blue circles the particle position after each wave period. The white dots are fluid particles, also followed in time. In the case shown here, the mean Eulerian horizontal velocity below the wave trough is zero. Observe that the wave period, experienced by a fluid particle near the free surface, is different from the wave period at a fixed horizontal position (as indicated by the light-blue circles). This is due to the Doppler shift.

The wave physics are computed with the Rienecker & Fenton (R&F) streamfunction theory; for a computer code to compute these see: J.D. Fenton (1988) "The numerical solution of steady water wave problems". Computers & Geosciences 14(3), pp. 357–368. The animations are made from the R&F results with a series of Matlab scripts and batch files.
Deutsch: Stokes Drift in Tiefwasserwellen mit einer Wellenlänge gleich der doppelten Wassertiefe.
Beschreibung der Animation:

Die roten Punkte bezeichnen die augenblicklichen Positionen der masselosen Teilchen, die sich mit der Strömungsgeschwindigkeit bewegen. Die hellblaue Linie ist die Bahnlinie dieser Teilchen und die hellblauen Punkte bezeichnen die Partikelpositionen nach jeder Wellenperiode. Die weißen Punkte sind gleichzeitig bewegte Flüssigkeitsteilchen. Im gezeigten Fall ist die mittlere horizontale Euler-Geschwindigkeit unter dem Wellental Null.

Man beachte, dass sich die Wellenperiode der Flüssigkeitsteilchen nahe der freien Oberfläche von derjenigen bezüglich einer festen Position (bezeichnet durch die hellblauen Punkte) unterscheidet. Dies ist auf die Doppler-Verschiebung zurückzuführen.
Source Own work
Author Kraaiennest
Other versions Shallow water wave.gif
Matlab Logo.png
This diagram was created with MATLAB.


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current13:44, 20 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 13:44, 20 January 2008390 × 256 (4.15 MB)Kraaiennest (talk | contribs)
13:36, 20 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 13:36, 20 January 2008390 × 256 (4.12 MB)Kraaiennest (talk | contribs)
11:15, 20 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 11:15, 20 January 2008234 × 153 (4.44 MB)Kraaiennest (talk | contribs)
01:01, 12 January 2008Thumbnail for version as of 01:01, 12 January 2008497 × 163 (6.32 MB)Kraaiennest (talk | contribs){{Information |Description=Deep water wave |Source=self-made |Date= |Author= Kraaiennest |Permission= |other_versions= }}
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