File:Image from page 282 of "Mount Everest, the reconnaissance, 1921" (1922).jpg

English: Identifier: mounteverestreco01howa

Title: Mount Everest, the reconnaissance, 1921 Year: 1922 (1920s) Authors: Howard-Bury, Charles, 1881- Leigh-Mallory, George Herbert, 1886-1924 Subjects: Mount Everest Expedition, 1921 Publisher: New York Longmans, Green and co. London, E. Arnold & co. Contributing Library: The Library of Congress Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

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Text Appearing Before Image: from the North-east arete was small enoughand we were now looking almost directly up its amazingcrest. If any doubts remained at this time as to that lineof attack, they now received a coup de grace. Not only wasthe crest itself seen to be both sharp and steep, suggestingan almost infinite labour, but the slopes on either handappeared in most places an impracticable alternative;and leading up to the great rock towers of the North-east THE EASTEKN APPROACH 233 shoulder, the final section, the point of a cruel sickle, appearedefiectuaUy to bar further progress should anyone have beencontent to spend a week or so on the lower parts. To discernso much required no prolonged study; to the right (North)the country was more intricate. The summit of Changtsewas eventually revealed, as the clouds cleared off, beyond,apparently a long way beyond, the crest of the spur in frontof us. To the extreme right, looking past the final slopesof the white cone above us was a more elevated skyHne and 23800

Text Appearing After Image: DIAGRAM SHOWING THAT THE KHARTA GLACIER DOES NOTLEAD TO THE NOBTH OOL. below it the upper part of the glacier, the lower end of whichwe had seen earher in the day descending Eastward. Butits extreme hmit was not quite visible. We had still toask the question as to where exactly it lay. Could thisglacier conceivably proceed in an almost level course upto Chang La, itself ? Or was it cut off much nearer to usby the high skyline which we saw beyond it ? Was itpossible, as in the second case must be, that this sky-Hne was continuous with the East arete of Changtse, thewhole forming the left bank of the glacier ? If no answerwas absolutely certain, the probabfiity at least was aU on 234 THE RECONNAISSANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN one side—on the wrong side alike for our present and ourfuture plans. We could hardly doubt that the glacier-headlay not far away under Chang La, but here near at handunder another col; beyond this must be the glacier of ourquest, turning East, as presumably it must turn

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