File:Breaking waves (Pacific Ocean shoreline at Heceta Head beach, Oregon, USA) 5.jpg

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English: Waves approaching the Oregon shoreline (3 August 2012).

This is the western coast of Oregon, USA. Waves are energy in motion. As waves approach shallow water and shorelines, the bottom portions of individual waves are slowed by frictional interaction with the sediment-water interface, while the upper parts of the waves are not significantly slowed. This results in oversteepening of the waves, followed by collapse - the wave "breaks".

Spilling breakers involve a mass of water and air rushing down the front of a wave - this happens at low gradient shorelines. Plunging breakers have a pocket of air formed as the top of the wave moves forward and downward. Surfers call large plunging breakers "barrel waves" - they enjoy surfing down the "tube" of a plunging breaker. Surging breakers have a wall of water suddenly rise from the water at the shoreline - this happens at shorelines with a steep gradient. Cliff-like, rocky shorelines have breakers that crash in large sprays of water.

Locality: sandy beach & rocky shoreline at Heceta Head, coastal Oregon, USA (vicinity of 44° 08' 02.18" North latitude, 124° 07' 24.58" West longitude)
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Source https://www.flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/53249051967/
Author James St. John

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This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 2.0 Generic license.
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This image was originally posted to Flickr by James St. John at https://flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/53249051967. It was reviewed on 11 October 2023 by FlickreviewR 2 and was confirmed to be licensed under the terms of the cc-by-2.0.

11 October 2023

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current15:41, 11 October 2023Thumbnail for version as of 15:41, 11 October 20234,288 × 2,548 (6.96 MB)Ser Amantio di Nicolao (talk | contribs)Uploaded a work by James St. John from https://www.flickr.com/photos/47445767@N05/53249051967/ with UploadWizard

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