File:Florists' review (microform) (1912) (16501235469).jpg

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Title: Florists' review (microform)
Identifier: 5205536_34_1 (find matches)
Year: 1912 (1910s)
Authors:
Subjects: Floriculture
Publisher: Chicago : Florists' Pub. Co
Contributing Library: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign
Digitizing Sponsor: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign

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Text Appearing Before Image:
Mat 23, 1W4- Tlie HoeisteVReview 19 two gallons of water and one-half ounce of whale-oil soap. The soap should be shaved fine and dissolved in hot water. .Mixtures of this character should be applied as a fine, penetrating spray by means of a compressed air sprayer or bucket pump. Such a pump costs from $3.50 to $15. If no pump is to be had, however, the infested twigs should be dipped in a pail of the. solution. Care should be taken to use these solutions at strengths no greater than those mentioned above, since injury to the foliage may result through the use of too much soap, or mildew be favored by two strong a nicotine solution. Application of insecticides should be made on the first appearance of the pest, which varies from the time that the leaves are put forth until the buds begin to form. Applications should be repeated as found necessary. THE DEFIANCE ROSE. The accompanying illustration is re- produced from a photograph made at the establishment of Edward Kress, 2506 East North avenue, Baltimore. It shows the new red rose. Defiance, with its originator, Mr. Kress, in the back- ground. The photograph was made May 7. The plan is to disseminate the rose next season. Vegetable Forcing TOMATOES FOR FOBCINO. I should like to have C. W. write an article on tomato forcing. Also, please have him tell me what is wrong with my tomato plants. The upper leaves twist and roll up into strings, sometimes keeping a good green color but some- times turning slightly yellow. When about three feet high these plants wilt and never recover. Bordeaux mixture has no effect; neither has sulphur. The roots are clean. The plants are grown in rotation with lettuce. The soil is sterilized with formaldehyde. Some- times the leaves show little green blis- ters, arranged in rows like the spore cases on ferns. The Globe variety of tomatoes is more subject to this trouble than any other. My location is north- eastern Ohio. W. W. If you want ripe tomatoes early in November, start the seeds on or about July 15. Transplant the seedlings into flats; then pot off singly into 3-inch or 3%-inch pots. Plant out into benches before the pots become too matted with roots. For midwinter fruiting you must allow the plants only a limited root- run. You may get a fairly decent crop to ripen in October and November even in solid beds, but as the days grow shorter the flowers will fall off in- stead of setting fi-uit, and the crop will be a scanty one. On the other hand, if you will restrict the rooting surface to four inches in depth and not over eighteen inches in width and feed this well as fruits set, you are certain of an excellent set, provided.other conditions are suitable. The plants should be eighteen inches apart and should be trained to single stems. Top the branches after five bunches, or six at most, are formed. Remgve all other laterals carefully; also shorten back some of the leaves to let
Text Appearing After Image:
Hooae of the New Red Roee, DeHancet Raised by Edward Kress, Baltimore. the fruit get all possible light. Toma- toes, especially in winter, sueee«d bet- ter if grown a little on the dry side. Once the fruit is set on two or three bvnches, you can feed freely and a good plan, is to give a mulching of cow manure. After April a good plan is to increase the rooting area and water somewhat more freely. A dry atmosphere is needed by toma- toes; in a moist one mildew will soon develop. A winter minimum of 60 de- grees is about right. If you have heat- ing pipes below the benches, all the bet- ter; a little bottom heat is good for winter tomatoes. Keep white fly down by using hydrocyanic acid gas. Only a W'Cak dose is necessary. It should be applied in the evening; always select as cool a night as possible for the op- eration. A good soil for tomatoes consists of three-fourths fibrous loam and one- fourth well rotted cow or horse manure. For midwinter fruiting the rows should be spaced fully four feet apart. For planting out in solid beds to follow vio- lets or sweet peas in March or April, the plants can be sixteen to eighteen inches apart, with twenty-four inches between the rows. Allow a 30-inch path lengthways of the house, in order to care for the plants more conveniently. Allow only one stem to these spring- planted ones, carefully removing all laterals. Lister's Prolific I find to be the best midwinter fruiter; it is a little ahead of Comet, which is a popular sort for both winter and spring planting. Car- ter's Sunrise and Sutton's Best of All are other good sorts. These are all British varieties and are better for forcing than Chalk's Early Jewel, Earli- aaa, or any of our American sorts, fine though they are for outdoor culture. Perhaps in the foregoing suggestions you may find some reasons why your plants are not doing better. C. W. GOOD TOMATO AND CUCUMBER. What is the best tomato and cucum- ber for forcing! We are using Comet and White Spine. A. S. E. Comet is a fine forcing tomato. How- ever, I have found Lister's Prolific somewhat better for winter and spring crops. There are a number of first-class strains of White Spine cucumber on the market. Of these I consider Ar- lington White Spine the best. C. W. NAME OF PLANT. Will you. please give us the name of the plant to which the enclosed leaves belong! We shall be glad if you will also tell us how to propagate the plant. We purchased it from a Cleveland florist and requested him to give us the name, but he could not; neither can we identify the plant from the catalogues. It grows somewhat like the dracaena and pan- danus. 0. A. K. The leaves in question are those of one of the cordylines, probably C. nigri- cans, which is one of the forms of C. terminalis. This plant is propagated by cuttings in the same manner as C. terminalis, the latter being the plant generally known to the trade as Dra- ca?na terminalis. W. H. T.

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Flickr tags
InfoField
  • bookid:5205536_34_1
  • bookyear:1912
  • bookdecade:1910
  • bookcentury:1900
  • booksubject:Floriculture
  • bookpublisher:Chicago_Florists_Pub_Co
  • bookcontributor:University_of_Illinois_Urbana_Champaign
  • booksponsor:University_of_Illinois_Urbana_Champaign
  • bookleafnumber:258
  • bookcollection:microfilm
  • BHL Collection
Flickr posted date
InfoField
1 March 2015



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