File:A visit to the Russians in central Asia (1899) (14784749175).jpg

Identifier: visittorussiansi00phib (find matches)
Title: A visit to the Russians in central Asia
Year: 1899 (1890s)
Authors: Phibbs, Isabelle Mary
Subjects: Russians -- Asia, Central Asia, Central -- Description and travel
Publisher: London : K. Paul, Trench, Trübner & co., ltd.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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Visit to the Russians lovely snow-capped mountains. On each sideof the road I saw the unhappy lepers who areallowed to sit here begging ; they do notattempt to approach, but hold out bowls tocatch the alms thrown to them. On entering the Shah Zindeh you see beforeyou a steep ascent of many steps, with, on bothsides, beautiful doorways to the sepulchres ofthe family of the great Timur. A street oftombs, some of them extremely simple, othersrichly decorated with Persian enamels. Thecolouring is chiefly turquoise blue and indigo,with flowing lines of cream colour and brown,all in the perfect harmony that is not producedin modern days. Some of the mosques atConstantinople have similar tiles of a ratherlater date, but where restorations defacingfingers have passed the pale delicate bluesand pearly greys have stiffened into sharpoutlines and crude bright hues. The oft-disputed question of restoration orno restoration is here constantly forced uponthe attention. It is melancholy to see these
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in Central Asia 211 exquisite works of art gradually falling intodecay ; but, as it would be impossible to repro-duce them in the beauty of their first colouring,it is perhaps better to leave unspoiled whatstill remains as a school of art for futuregenerations. There is no danger of destruc-tion by the ruthless hands of tourists, and theRussians are beginning to awake to a sense ofthe dignity of art and of antiquity. The centre of interest in these buildings isthe sacred mosque built by Tamerlane over thetomb of Kussan, a cousin of the prophet. Ientered, accompanied by two Mollahs, througha beautiful doorway. The door itself is won-derful in carving and inlaid workmanship.The light within is dim, and the spot is heldin such veneration by the Musulmans thatsilence is enjoined, and the places of specialinterest are indicated without speech. Thetomb of Kussan is imperfectly seen through agrating, it is covered with the folds of finecashmire that are customary, and the green flagand horse

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