File:Ett par byxor av grå vadmal med banddekor och silvergaloner - Livrustkammaren - 1257.tif

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Ett par byxor av grå vadmal med banddekor och silvergaloner.

English: A pair of breeches (trousers) of gray wool broadcloth (wadmal) with ribbon decoration and silver braid.

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Artist
Unknown authorUnknown author
Title
Ett par byxor av grå vadmal med banddekor och silvergaloner.
English: A pair of breeches (trousers) of gray wool broadcloth (wadmal) with ribbon decoration and silver braid.
Description
Svenska: Längd fram: 76,3 cm.
Midja: 95 cm invändigt, 100 cm utvändigt.
Byxvidd: 116 cm.
Benvidd nedtill: 54 cm.
Linning i midjan: 2,5 cm.
Sprund/gylf: 33 cm.
Längd mitt bak: 75,7 cm inkl 2,3 cm knälinning.
Längd sidsöm: 72 cm.
Längd innerbensöm: 40,5 cm inkl knälinning.
Prundet vid knälinningen: 27 cm.
Ficksprund: 20,5 cm.
Fickpåsens djup: 15 cm.
Knälinning: 2,3 cm.

Byxorna är rynkade mot midjans linning och mot knälinningarna. Midjelinningen är i samma tyg som byxorna i övrigt och är fodrad med vitt linne samt ett mellanfoder av dubbelvikt grovt linne. Runt benen sitter likadana linningar. Byxorna har varit dekorerade med med 7 mm breda silvergaloner. Dessa har gått från midjelinningen ner till knälinningen i grupper om tre och tre med 4-5 cm mellanrum. Inalles 34 grupper. Höger ben har numera 12 galoner kvar och vänster ben har 19 kvar. Sedan konserveringen 1978 är galonerna rekonstruerade med bruna bomullsband.
Från varje knälinning, som är helt sluten, går ett sprund i sidan. Sprundet på höger byxben är är kantade med 9 st runda silvertrådsklädda knappar på var sida, på vänster ben 9 knappar på bakstycket och 11 knappar på framstycket. Knapparna är 15 mm i diameter. Mellan varje knapp på byxbenens bakstyckenas sprund sitter 9 silvertrådsöglor, en runt varje knapp. Tre silversnoddar saknas på höger ben, på vänster finns alla kvar. Sprunden är kantade med silvergaloner. Tyget vid gylfen är vikt och fållat i kanten. I gylfen, 7 cm från midjan, finns två små runda hål bredvid varandra, två på var sida om gylfen. Hålen är kantade med stygn av gulvitt silke, på vänster sida finns bara ett fåtal stygn kvar. Byxorna är fodrade med vitt linne. Mellan linnet och yttertyget finns rester av ett mellanfoder i ylle. Knälinnigarna är dekorerade med mönstervävda ockrafärgade band med 2,5-4 cm långa metalltappar. På vänster ben finns fem ganska hela band bevarade, på höger två st. Banden är instuckna vid knälinningen och genom fodret. Vid konserveringen 1978 rekonstruerades banden. Fickpåsarna av vitt linne är fodrade med ljust brun taft. På varje sida om grensömmen, 18 cm ned från grenen, är två 6-8 mm breda tränsar i brunt silke sydda. På knälinningen finns en pappersetikett med N 5 och några oläsliga ord i brunt bläck. Yllet är i god kondition, däremot är taften i fickorna mycket skör.

Material
Byxtyget
Trådtäthet: 12 tr/cm.
Bindning: Tuskaft.

Linnefoder
Trådtäthet: ca 40 tr/cm.
Bindning: Tuskaft.

Sidenfoder i fickorna.
Bindning: Tuskaft.
English: A pair of breeches (trousers) associated with Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden (9 December 1594 – 6 November 1632, O.S.) The breeches are made of gray wool broadcloth (wadmal), trimmed with ribbon decoration and silver braid.

Measurements

  • Front rise: 76.3 cm.
  • Waist: 95 cm internally, externally 100cm.
  • Leg width adjustment 116 cm.
  • Bottom leg width: 54 cm.
  • Waist band: 2.5cm.
  • Slit / fly: 33 cm.
  • Center back length: 75.7 cm including 2.3 cm knee band.
  • Side seam:: 72 cm.
  • Inseam: 40.5 cm including knee bands
  • Opening at knee band (?): 27 cm.
  • Pocket opening (?): 20.5 cm.
  • Pocket depth (?): 15 cm.
  • Kneeband: 2.3 cm.


The breeches are gathered at the waistband and knee bands. The waistband is the same fabric as the breeches in general and is lined with white linen and a batting of folded coarse linen. The knee bands are like the waistband. The breeches have been decorated with the 7 mm wide silver braid. The braid runs from the waistband down to the knee bands in groups of three and three with 4.5 cm between each group. In all, there were 34 groups. The right leg has now 12 braids left and left legs have 19 left. In the 1978 conservation, braids were reconstructed with brown cotton cord.

There is an opening at the side of each knee band, which is fully enclosed. The opening on the right pant leg is is lined with 9 round silver wire-covered buttons on each side. On the left leg there are 9 buttons on the back and 11 buttons on the front. The buttons are 15 mm in diameter. There are 9 silver wire loops, one around each button. Three silver cords are missing on right leg, on the left there are [none?] left. The opening is edged with silver braid. The fabric at the fly opening has hemmed edges. In the fly, 7 cm from the waist, are two eyelets next to each other, two on each side of the opening. The eyelets are outlined with stitches of off-white silk. Only a few stitches remain on the left side. The breeches are lined with white linen. Between the linen and the outer fabric are remnants of wool batting. The knee bands are decorated with pattern-woven ocher-colored ribbon tipped with 2.5-4 cm long metal aiglets. On the left leg there are five mostly intact ribbons remaining; on the right two pieces remain. The bands are inserted at the knee bands and through the lining. The bands were reconstructed in the 1978 conservation. Pockets of white linen are lined with light brown taffeta. On each side of the crotch seam, 18 cm down from the fork, two 6.8 mm wide cords of brown silk are sewn. On the knee band is a paper label with N 5 and some illegible words in brown ink. The wool is in good condition, but the taffeta in the pockets is very brittle.

Materials

Breeches fabric

Thread count: 12 tr / cm.
Structure: plain weave.

Linen lining

Thread count: 3ca 40 tr / cm.
Structure: plain weave.

Silk (taffeta) lining in the pockets.

Structure: plain weave.
Used at
InfoField
Överfarten av Weichsel vid Kleinwerder
Date 1627
date QS:P571,+1627-00-00T00:00:00Z/9
Dimensions length: 763 mm (30.03 in)
dimensions QS:P2043,763U174789
(fram)
institution QS:P195,Q1636176
Accession number
Object history

Gustav II Adolf av Sverige

(Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden)
References
  • Rangström, Lena (2002) Modelejon : manligt mode 1500-tal, 1600-tal, 1700-tal, Stockholm: Livrustkammaren Bokförlaget Atlantis ISBN: 9174866435.
  • Conforti, Michael (1988) Sweden : a royal treasury, 1550-1700, Washington, D.C: National Gallery of Art ISBN: 0894681192.
Source LSH 1257 (LN_B09700_012580)
Permission
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current18:37, 16 October 2013Thumbnail for version as of 18:37, 16 October 20134,961 × 6,724 (63.68 MB)LSHuploadBot (talk | contribs){{LSH artwork |artist= |title= |description= Skoklosterskölden - SKO 7133 - mittpartiet (repro ?) |original caption= Skoklosterskölden - SKO 7133 - mittpartiet (repro ?) |date= |medium= |dimensions= |source= LRK |provenance= |exhibition= |inscrip

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