File:The Quarterly journal of the Geological Society of London (12736062034).jpg

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AND CAHORE SHINGLE BEACH, CO. WEXFORD.
35
back wash (A, fig. 1) of each wave will carry a quantity of sand and
the like with it, which at the junction (B) with the incoming wave
Fig. 1. — Diagram of a Wind-wave breaking on a shelving beach.
will be met, tossed about, and carried back again ; but if the tide is
ebbing, scarcely any particles will be carried by the back wash, and
the junction (B) with the incoming wave will scarcely have even a
particle of sand in it. In the first case, a bucketful taken at the
junction would be sand and water, while in the second it would bo
nearly pure water.
Third Point. — "Currents carry the smallest fragments furthest."
Tidal currents are different from other currents. They break on the
shore in successive waves, whether these be augmented by wind-
waves or not, drive the fragments obliquely up the beach, the larger
ones to remain or only to be brought back a little way, while the
smaller ones are caught in the " back wash," and carried back again
till they meet the succeeding incoming wave. Thus the larger frag-
ments have a tendency to be driven higher, and further up, and
along a beach than the smaller ones. Also, if the progress of a
beach is stopped by a groyne, whether natural or artificial, the
larger pebbles accumulate behind it, and form a shingle beach.
Chesil and Cahore beaches are remarkable on account of their
being very similarly circumstanced in several particulars; this will be
evident from the following table of comparison. All the statements
in regard to the Cahore beach are given from personal examination ;
but for those relating to the Chesil beach we have to rely on the
notes and publications of other observers. Some of the points of
comparison are partly speculative, but agreeable with the known
results of certain natural laws.
A Comparison of the Conditions at the Chesil Beach, Dorsetshire,
and at the Cahore Shingle Beach, co. Wexford.
Chesil Beach.
1. The beach is situated on
the north side of the English
Channel, where there is a smaller
"rise 1 ' of the tide than on the
south side (coast of France).
Cahore Shingle Beach.
1. The beach is situated on the
west side of the Irish Sea, where
there is a smaller "rise" of the
tide than on the east side (coast
of England).

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Source https://www.flickr.com/photos/biodivlibrary/12736062034
Author Geological Society of London
Full title
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The Quarterly journal of the Geological Society of London.
Page ID
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35818088
Item ID
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110705 (Find related Wikimedia Commons images)
Title ID
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51125
Page numbers
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Page 35
BHL Page URL
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https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/page/35818088
Page type
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Text
Flickr sets
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  • The Quarterly journal of the Geological Society of London. v. 33 (1877).
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Flickr posted date
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24 February 2014
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This file comes from the Biodiversity Heritage Library.

This tag does not indicate the copyright status of the attached work. A normal copyright tag is still required. See Commons:Licensing.

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26 August 2015

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current19:19, 26 August 2015Thumbnail for version as of 19:19, 26 August 20151,866 × 3,200 (1 MB)Fæ (talk | contribs)== {{int:filedesc}} == {{BHL | title = The Quarterly journal of the Geological Society of London. | source = http://www.flickr.com/photos/biodivlibrary/12736062034 | description = AND CAHORE SHINGLE BEACH, CO. WEXFORD. <br> 35 <br> back wash (A, fig. 1...

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