File:Winter India (1903) (14760921354).jpg

Identifier: winterindia00scid (find matches)
Title: Winter India
Year: 1903 (1900s)
Authors: Scidmore, Eliza Ruhamah, 1856-1928
Subjects: India -- Description and travel
Publisher: New York : The Century Co.
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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of Mahratta turbans, which surpass in num-ber and originality those of any other people. Thevery imposing coachman snapped his whip and theblooded horses sped away like the wind, straightdown the middle of each street, the sais yelpingshrill warnings, the crowds parting automaticallyand saluting the palace livery. We saw the beauti-ful unfinished temple to Sindhia s mother, for whichthe stone-cutters were chipping out as fine traceriesand latticings as any in Delhi or Agra, and then re-turned for the serious British breakfast, at a tablefragrant with roses and mignonette. It was radiant,mild, ideal spring weather, and after all our suf-ferings from cold we basked with delight in the openair, faring forth again to the foot of the rock-fortresswhich rises like Gibraltar from the plain. A splen-did elephant in red-velvet trappings stood wavingits trunk as we drove up, and at the word of com-mand sank upon its hind legs in a deep courtesy,stretched out its great body, slowly bent its fore
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GWALIOR 339 legs and sank to the ground, and we climbed up aladder to the dos-a-dos car or saddle on its back.With earthquake heaves, a rock this way and a lurchthat way, it stood erect and lumbered up the steep,flagged path, through six defensive gateways, to theblue-tiled walls of the painted palace at the edgeof the rock. We penetrated its deserted courts allcarved with flat traceries and arabesques and setwith enameled tilings and stone latticings, and fromthe flat roof had an unlimited view over the levelyellow plain more than three hundred feet below. Again our stately transport knelt, we climbed tothe red-velvet jaunting-car on its back, and it pacedacross the flat, table-topped mesa to the half-ruinedJain temples, where conquering Moguls wreakedtheir fanatic zeal, chipping and mutilating themyriad tiny figures in the bas-reliefs with whichwalls and columns were covered, and further effacingthem with coats of chunam and whitewash. Thewealth of intricate ornament lavished on the

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