Commons:Featured picture candidates/File:Philips Series 7000 shaver head.jpg

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File:Philips Series 7000 shaver head.jpg, featured[edit]

Voting period is over. Please don't add any new votes.Voting period ends on 1 Mar 2017 at 22:15:27 (UTC)
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SHORT DESCRIPTION
  •  Comment Just one little thing that could be corrected: Down center there are two places where you can see some flesh-toned reflections, probably from you. It would look nicer if those were in grey tones instead. --cart-Talk 22:39, 20 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
Thanks Frank. I'm a wet shave man myself, though with more modern technology than your link :-). My wife thinks I'm completely bonkers, spending the evening in the kitchen taking dozens of photos of my son's shaver. I showed her the result and she said: "It's a shaver. So?" *sigh* -- Colin (talk) 08:50, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
technical discussion about stacking
Thanks. Unlike Lucas, I'm not very experienced with focus stacking. I used stacking for my Electric steam iron five years ago, but my infrequent attempts since then have mostly failed. When you have overlaping parts like here, it is a real PITA because the out-of-focus blur from a near edge hides the detail from the far surface. First time using a new lens and new software (Helicon focus) which impressed me with its output and retouching tool (though I still needed Photoshop as I couldn't get the hang of the clone tool in that program). I'll try to measure the DoF tonight, though the official "DoF" on a lens is "Acceptable sharpness when looking at an 8×10" photo from normal distance" whereas for this we need the sharpness to be good enough you don't see any softening between frames at all. I need to experiment more with optimum aperture and steps. The shaver head is about 6 cm across so on a 100 dpi monitor, you are looking at 20× magnification. The 36 steps would be about 1.7 mm each on average. I measured the nearest and furthest focus points, marked them on the lens barrel with tape, and then nudged lens focus slightly after each shot. Perhaps Lucas has some advice on technique. -- Colin (talk) 08:47, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
Colin, I currently do it exactly the same way with markings on my lens and nudging the focus ring tiniest amounts forward (approx. 0.5 mm on the lens barrel), but I sometimes get gaps in my stacks which I notice too late (because I was impatient and turned it a bit too much). I tried Helicon Remote (comes free with Helicon Focus Pro licenses, just get the exe file) which is a PC liveview program that gives autofocus commands to the lens, but it requires serious setup time to work right and my lens would only move in one direction, so I wasn't patient enough to set it all up for use. Regarding the overlaps, in File:Canon EF 16-35mm f4L IS USM front angled with hood.jpg for example I had serious blurring and had to manually mask the front part of the lens hood and clone the background further down behind it. Tedious work. You could try Method C in HF, it's better suited for overlaps but the downside is, this method increases contrast and sometimes adds halos. – LucasT 12:10, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
Lucas, I'll experiment with the other methods, though I don't see how any software can automatically recover what isn't there -- if the blur obscures part of the subject, then that's lost information you just have to clone back. There seem to be options for the blur radius too. I wonder, with your lens+hood, whether you'd have been better removing the hood to stack the lens, then repeat with the hood on to stack the hood, then combine the two images in Photoshop. I suppose I could have done the same with the shaver head + body, though there would be a big risk I move the body too much when removing the head. I'm afraid Helicon Remote doesn't work with my Sony camera, and this is a manual focus lens anyway. I do like the way layer retouching works in Helicon Focus. Do you use their clone tool? If so, perhaps you could drop some info on my talk page? I couldn't work it out at all, compared with Photoshop. -- Colin (talk) 12:27, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
Colin, it's just that HF tutorials advise to use Method C for overlapping things (http://www.heliconsoft.com/helicon-focus-main-parameters/), how well it works you would need to try on your own. I haven't tried the HF cloning tool yet, I defaulted to PS cloning tools as you did, also because I want to mask the front part and do many other things in PS anyway. Shooting hood and lens separately would not have helped, the perspective is the same thus the overlapping parts are unchanged. – LucasT 12:34, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
The reason I suggested removing the hood is that when it is out-of-focus (when you focus on the lens body) then its blurred rendered form is larger and obscures the sharp lens body detail at the margin. Thus by removing the hood, you'd get a sharp body that could later be blended with the hood. -- Colin (talk) 12:53, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
The Photographer, I'll check but I'm pretty sure I have no more of the image at the bottom, to change the crop. I agree I could have included a bit more when I took the photos. -- Colin (talk) 12:27, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
I understand that you should do it again because the image is already done, however, it's a minor problem --The Photographer 12:40, 21 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]

:* Question why, Daniel? I'm really interested because you also had the option not to vote at all. I understand that overly technical pics tend to polarize more than other subjects. Something along that line? --Martin Falbisoner (talk) 09:46, 23 February 2017 (UTC) --Martin Falbisoner (talk) 12:06, 23 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]

Or maybe he's not sure if support or oppose for some wow raison. --The Photographer 12:17, 23 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
Confirmed results:
Result: 25 support, 0 oppose, 0 neutral → featured. /lNeverCry 05:22, 26 February 2017 (UTC)[reply]
This image will be added to the FP gallery: Objects#Machines
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